Denominations in Székely Land

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In Székely Land you often only need to drive to the next village to step into the church of another denomination. Catholic pilgrimage sites, Reformed fortified churches, Unitarian village churches and an Armenian Catholic Baroque church: this guide helps you find your way – who lives here, how to recognise their churches and what visitors should keep in mind.

Who lives where?

The religious map still reflects decisions made in the 16th and 17th centuries. The Székely people of Csík, Gyergyó and Kászon remained Catholic; in Háromszék Catholic and Reformed villages alternate; Marosszék has many Reformed communities, while the Homoród and Nyikó valleys and Erdővidék are home to many Unitarians. The region’s Romanian population is mostly Orthodox.

2/3Two-thirds of Harghita County’s residents are Roman Catholic (2011)

1/3In Covasna County one resident in three is Reformed (2011)

96%The share of Hungarians among Unitarians in Romania (2021)

Distribution of residents who stated a religion, 2011 census, rounded
Denomination	Harghita County	Covasna County
Roman Catholic	66%	36%
Reformed	12%	33%
Orthodox	13%	21%
Unitarian	7%	4%
Evangelical Lutheran	<1%	<1%
Other	2%	5%

In the 2021 census no religion was recorded for about 14 per cent of the population, so the 2011 figures give a more reliable picture of the county shares.

The four communities

Each denomination has its own page presenting the community’s history, the features of its churches, its feasts and its sites on Peregrinus.

Csík, Gyergyó, KászonRoman CatholicsPilgrimage sites, Franciscan friaries and fortified churches13 sites Háromszék, MarosszékThe ReformedFortified churches, coffered ceilings, churchyards with carved grave posts3 sites Udvarhelyszék, ErdővidékUnitarians“God is one”: medieval murals and painted ceilings4 sites Gyergyószentmiklós, CsíkszépvízArmenian CatholicsThe legacy of Armenian merchants who arrived in the 17th century1 site

Reading a church: how to tell them apart

A few signs tell you whose church you are entering. The rule is not without exceptions – many medieval churches have been used by more than one denomination over the centuries – but it is a good guide.

Roman CatholicA cross on top of the tower. Inside: an altar, altarpieces and statues, a sanctuary lamp burning beside the tabernacle, the Stations of the Cross on the walls and a holy water font at the entrance.

ReformedThe tower is often topped with a star or a rooster. Inside there are no altarpieces or statues: the pulpit and the communion table stand at the centre, and the decoration comes from the painted coffered ceiling and the carved pulpit canopy.

UnitarianThe interior is as plain as a Reformed one: pulpit, communion table, gallery and often a painted coffered ceiling. Their creed, “God is one”, can even be read in Székely runic script at Énlaka; medieval murals uncovered from under the plaster are preserved as heritage.

Armenian CatholicA Catholic church celebrating the Armenian rite. Armenian saints appear among the Baroque furnishings: in Gyergyószentmiklós the most valuable painting shows St Gregory the Illuminator, who converted Armenia to Christianity.

Other communities

Lutherans

Of the received religions of Transylvania, the Evangelical Lutheran Church is the smallest in Székely Land. Most Hungarian Lutherans live in the neighbouring Barcaság, in the Csángó villages of Hétfalu near Brassó; in Covasna County 851 people declared themselves Lutheran in 2011. Their church, the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Romania, has been independent since 1920 and is based in Kolozsvár.

Orthodox and Greek Catholics

The Romanian communities of the region are mostly Orthodox. The Orthodox Diocese of Covasna and Harghita was founded in 1994; its seat is Csíkszereda, home to the Cathedral of St Nicholas. A small number of Greek Catholics also live in the area.

Sabbatarians – Bözödújfalu

The Sabbatarian movement arose among the Unitarians in 1588 and is linked to András Eőssi and Simon Péchi. Its followers were persecuted in the 17th century; their last community lived in Bözödújfalu, today in Mureș County, where many converted to Judaism from 1868 onwards and several were deported in 1944.

The villagers were relocated when work on a reservoir began in the 1980s, and the houses were flooded between 1992 and 1994. The tower of the old church collapsed into the lake in 2014. Former residents and their descendants gather in the memorial park on the shore on the first Saturday of August.

For visitors

On Sunday mornings most churches hold Mass or a service: you are welcome as a guest of the community, but it is not the time for sightseeing.
On weekdays many village churches are locked. Ask for the key at the parish office, the minister’s office or from the church warden; contact details are collected on our Parishes and congregations page.
Holy Communion and the Lord’s Supper are for members of the community. If you are unsure of the custom, simply stay in your seat – no one will take offence.
In many village churches men and women still traditionally sit apart: have a look around before you take a seat.
Take photographs outside services and with permission. You can support the upkeep of the church with a donation.

More on Peregrinus

The history and background of religious tourismA timeline from Jerusalem to Csíksomlyó Four received religions, one landscapeAn article on the historic churches of Székely Land Parishes and congregationsContact details of parishes and congregations Pilgrimage routesSix pilgrimage routes by car, with maps, distances and tips Pilgrim passportMark the places you have visited – online or on paper Painted heavensCoffered ceilings in the churches