Among the hills of Udvarhelyszék, three small Unitarian villages keep some of the finest church interiors of Székely Land: the St Ladislaus murals of Homoródkarácsonyfalva, uncovered in 2006, the fortified church of Székelyderzs, part of the UNESCO World Heritage, and the painted coffered ceiling of Énlaka with its runic inscription. The most convenient starting point is Székelyudvarhely.
Stops along the route
- 1
Unitarian Church – Homoródkarácsonyfalva
In spring 2006, a 14th-century St Ladislaus legend in seven scenes, more than eleven metres long, came to light beneath the plaster of the north wall. The interior is dominated by a painted ceiling of 96 coffers made around 1752.
Visits by prior arrangement; the Unitarian parish can tell you where to get the key.
- 40 km · approx. 45 min by car
- 2
Unitarian Fortified Church – Székelyderzs
The 15th-century church is surrounded by a 17th-century fortified wall, and the ensemble is part of the UNESCO World Heritage. Its St Ladislaus mural cycle was painted in 1419 and is one of the best-preserved Ladislaus legends. Along the inside of the wall the villagers once stored their grain, and in the bastions their bacon and smoked meat.
The local Unitarian parish provides information about visits.
- 46 km · approx. 1 hour by car
- 3
Unitarian Church – Énlaka
Standing within a stone wall on the hilltop above the village, the church's treasure is its ceiling of 88 coffers painted in 1668. Ten of the coffers carry inscriptions, among them “God is One” written in Székely runic script, discovered by Balázs Orbán in 1864.
Visits by prior arrangement; the Unitarian ministry office in Énlaka can tell you where to get the key.
Good to know
- All three churches are kept locked: arrange the key and the time of your visit with the Unitarian parishes a day or two in advance.
- The murals and painted ceilings are sensitive to light: please do not use flash.
- In church, clothing covering shoulders and knees is appropriate; please do not take photos during services.
- There are few places to eat in the villages – accommodation and meals are easier to find in Székelyudvarhely.
Feasts along the route
- Day of Religious Freedom 202713 January 2027
- Corpus Christi Procession 2027 – Székelyudvarhely27 May 2027
Further reading
- Faith set in stone – The fortified churches and frescoes of Szeklerland
- Painted heavens – Coffered ceilings in the churches of Szeklerland
- Four received religions, one land – The historic churches of Szeklerland
Where to stay along the route
Distances and travel times are approximate (based on OpenStreetMap routing) and may vary with local road conditions.
