Anyone travelling around Székely Land soon notices that the churches of neighbouring villages often belong to different denominations. In Csík, Catholic churches with Baroque towers, in Háromszék and Marosszék Reformed congregations, and in Udvarhelyszék and Erdővidék Unitarian communities keep the faith. This diversity is the legacy of the unique religious tolerance of 16th-century Transylvania.
Reformation and religious freedom in Transylvania
In the 16th century the Reformation spread rapidly in the Principality of Transylvania. In 1568 the Diet of Torda proclaimed the freedom of preaching: ministers could freely proclaim their faith, and communities could choose for themselves whose teaching to follow. The decree is regarded as one of Europe's first laws on religious freedom. In the principality, four received religions – Roman Catholic, Lutheran, Reformed and Unitarian – eventually enjoyed equal rights, while the Orthodox faith continued as a tolerated religion.
Catholic Csík and the Franciscans
The Székelys of Csík, Gyergyó and Kászon largely remained Catholic – and the Franciscans played a key role in this. Csíksomlyó has been a place of pilgrimage since 1442; the church's 227-centimetre limewood statue of the Virgin Mary was made in the early 16th century and survived intact even the Tatar–Turkish devastation of 1661. Ignác Batthyány, Bishop of Transylvania, recognised it as miraculous in 1798.
The Franciscan presence is also decisive in Háromszék. The first friar arrived in Esztelnek in 1677; the wooden friary was blessed on 1 October 1690, the present church was built between 1710 and 1729 using elements of the earlier St George Chapel, and the stone friary was completed by 1750. The church and friary are still an important centre of religious life in the area.
Reformed Háromszék and Marosszék
The interiors of Reformed churches follow their confession: there are no altarpieces or statues, the pulpit and the communion table stand at the centre, and decoration comes from the painted coffered ceiling, the carved pulpit canopy and the gallery. This uncluttered spirit is reflected in the fortified church of Sepsiszentgyörgy and the Reformed church of Dálnok, whose medieval foundations survived its 16th-century remodelling. The carved grave posts in the churchyards preserve the community's memory.
Unitarian Udvarhelyszék and Erdővidék
The Unitarian Church regards 1568, the year of the Diet of Torda, as the year of its foundation; its first bishop was Ferenc Dávid. The Unitarian faith took root mainly along the Homoród and Nyikó rivers and in Erdővidék, and its best-known churches still stand here. The fortified churches of Székelyderzs and Nagyajta and the medieval murals of Homoródkarácsonyfalva show that the congregations maintained their medieval churches for centuries – which is how these walls have survived.
Shrines and pilgrimage feasts
The high point of the feasts of Catholic communities is the búcsú – the feast of the church's patron saint or title – to which pilgrims also come from the surrounding villages. Outstanding among them is the Whitsun pilgrimage of Csíksomlyó, attended by several hundred thousand people from every part of the Carpathian Basin. More on this in The Secrets of Csíksomlyó .
How to visit
- On Sunday mornings most churches hold a service or Mass – you can join the community then, but it is not the time for sightseeing.
- On weekdays you can usually ask for the key at the parsonage or from the caretaker.
- As a visitor, a quiet and respectful presence is enough everywhere; ask permission before taking photographs.
- We have collected the contact details of the parishes on the Peregrinus Church Communities page.
